Post #3

Back in the Saddle: 08/21/25

With a new plan of attack and a day of rest, we set out to test our revised approach. My seat felt much more comfortable with the added pads, offering extra protection. After a breakfast of toast and jam, we said goodbye to Peter. The first few miles were smooth, and we stopped more frequently, slowing our cadence to conserve energy.

We arrived on the outskirts of the small town of Bač, where we were amazed to find the ruins of a stunning 5th-century fortress. As we explored, we imagined what life must have been like back then. Despite the centuries, it’s clear people faced daily stresses, just in different ways.

After snapping a few photos, we rode into town and stopped for coffee. While sipping our drinks, we overheard a woman singing "Old MacDonald Had a Farm" in English to a child. Noticing us, she eagerly practiced her English, asking us all sorts of questions. Once again, we were touched by the warmth and hospitality of the Serbian people.

The final 8 miles were on a road we’d feared would be busy, but it turned out to be surprisingly calm. In Odžaci, we rented a comfortable apartment for the night for $50. Ivan and his sister welcomed us warmly and helped us settle in. The apartment had a washing machine—a major win! Laundry became our top priority, so we quickly put it to use.

Unfortunately, each wash cycle took about two and a half hours, followed by air-drying time. To our dismay, when the cycle ended, the machine’s door remained locked. Thinking, “just our luck,” we called Ivan, who was at work. His sister came to assist but couldn’t open it either. She called a friend, who effortlessly unlocked the door. Our worries were for nothing, and by morning, our clothes were clean and ready.

Rode 19 miles

Keep on rolling,

Scott and Sarah

The Ride to Sombor: 08/22/25

A stormy night made for a restful sleep. Our hosts went above and beyond to ensure we were comfortable after the washing machine fiasco. After heartfelt goodbyes, we set off for our next adventure.

Cloudy skies kept the temperature pleasant. Riding mostly through farmland and small villages, we paced ourselves with shorter segments. I noticed my hands weren’t falling asleep, and my pressure points felt much better—a promising sign.

In one village, we met Torben, a cyclist in his mid-to-late 70's riding from Denmark to Greece, covering 70 to 90 miles a day! His energy reminded us that life is far from over until it’s truly over.

Within 6 miles of our campground, the road turned to cobblestone—three grueling miles of it! It was a bumpy ride, but we made it to the campground’s doorstep. While waiting for the owner, a woman stopped and, through Google Translate, offered to buy us cold drinks. We politely declined, eager to settle in, but her kindness warmed our hearts.

The campground was a little oasis. Pecky and his wife, Ivanka, created a wonderful haven for cyclists. Pecky welcomed us with delicious Turkish coffee—my first taste, and I loved it. Over dinner, we played Farkle and planned the next day before heading to bed.

Rode 27 miles

Keep on rolling,

Scott and Sarah

Crossing Our First Border: 08/23/25

We started the day with our usual oatmeal and fruit breakfast, excited for our first border crossing from Serbia to Hungary. To support my recovery, we maintained a slower pace, and the adjustments we’d made seemed to be working—I felt ready to ride many more miles.

At around 10 miles, we stopped at a roadside café bustling with locals enjoying coffee and conversation. After riding through villages and countryside, we reached the border. The process was straightforward: a quick passport check and a few questions. Hungary’s imposing border wall stood out, a clear sign of their serious approach to security.

Upon entering Hungary, we immediately noticed a difference in the upkeep of roads and buildings—a stark contrast reflecting the political divide between East and West. We rode through beautiful countryside to a ferry that took us to Mohács, our destination for the night.

Our hotel was the nicest we’d stayed in so far, though I’d have preferred camping. Campsites have been scarce along this stretch of the Danube, but we hope for more as we continue toward Amsterdam.

For dinner, Sarah and I enjoyed delicious, well-prepared burgers at a sidewalk café in town. As we ate, a wedding party with all its guests paraded by, a delightful spectacle. We clapped as they passed, and I turned to Sarah and said, “This feels like a scene from Disneyland’s Main Street.”

Mohács has a nostalgic charm. Shops close early on Saturday and don’t reopen until Monday, and the town is immaculate—no graffiti in sight. Families stroll with their children, and there’s a calm, unhurried atmosphere free from the 24/7 bustle. We’re excited to see more of Hungary.

Rode 37 miles

Keep on rolling,

Scott and Sarah

A Perfect Day Almost: 08/24/25

We woke up in a wonderful hotel to a generous breakfast spread. Eager to continue, we left early to catch a ferry back to our route across the Danube. Waiting at the ferry was picturesque: the boat floated gently on the river, framed by a crystal-blue sky. The crisp morning air was perfect for riding—a truly ideal day.

Our all-day ride felt manageable, and we soon stopped at a charming café overlooking the Danube. We ordered caramel lattes, which hit the spot. As we were leaving, Craig and Susie rode up, and we chatted briefly before continuing.

About a mile later, we hit a curb while crossing a road, and the impact nearly spelled disaster. The back wheel took the brunt, pressing against the frame so it couldn’t rotate. At first, I feared we’d bent the spindle. I tried calling Craig, but with no answer, I unloaded our gear and discovered the quick-release had come loose. A quick adjustment fixed it, averting a major setback.

We pressed on, hitting 20 miles, then 30, 40, and finally 50. By 4:00 p.m., we stopped at an Aldi to grab dinner supplies before heading to our hotel in Kalocsai, Hungary. It was a long but mostly uneventful day, and we were grateful to arrive. After dinner, we met to plan the next few days, aiming for Budapest. Tomorrow, we face a 60 mile ride.

Rode 52 miles

Keep on rolling,

Scott and Sarah

Highway to Hell: August 25, 2025

This morning was chilly, but we planned to hit the road by 8:00 AM. After a restful night's sleep, we gathered outside the hotel, spirits high, and set off on our ride.

The first 10 miles flew by, and by mile 20, we stopped for coffee after a quick detour to find an ATM. For some reason, our cards aren’t working properly at ATMs, though they function fine in stores. Sure enough, the ATM failed again, so we’ll need to visit a bank in person, soon.

We made good time, riding from village to village. On our ride in the U.S., corn silos were the town landmarks visible for miles, but here, it’s church steeples. If you’re ever lost, a church steeple will be sure to guide to the nearest village.

Sarah and I had planned to deviate from the main route today to cut down on mileage and avoid rough surfaces. At one point, we had to merge onto a busy road, we had no idea just how busy! It was easily one of the most dangerous roads we’ve ever ridden, if not the most dangerous. We dubbed it the highway to hell.

This six-mile stretch was a nightmare: winding, narrow, with no shoulder, potholes, and cracked pavement, all while cars and 18-wheelers barreled past at high speeds. Once we committed, there was no turning back. Then Sarah spotted a sign noting the number of deaths on this road, which didn’t exactly boost our confidence.

I wouldn’t say I was scared—terrified is more accurate. We were in hyper-pedal mode, desperate to reach the end as quickly as possible. At one particularly hairy curve, an 18-wheeler approached from the opposite direction while another bore down on us from behind. 

Sarah shouted, “An 18 is coming!” as I struggled to dodge potholes and ruts while keeping an eye on the truck in my rearview mirror. Its grill filled the mirror, looming closer. With no other option, I pulled over and stopped. The oncoming truck and the one behind us slowed to a crawl, passing each other with mere inches to spare. We held our breath to make more room, and they roared past. Shortcuts don’t always pay off, but they sure add excitement to life.

The campground we chose for the night in Rackeve is more like a water park on steroids, complete with thermal baths that we were incredibly grateful for after such a grueling day. Tomorrow, we ride to Budapest, where we’ve rented an Airbnb for a few days.

Rode 59 miles

Keep on rolling,

Scott and Sarah