Post #7

The Scenic Danube: 09/04/25

We set out early today at 7:30 a.m. to cover a few extra miles. Police officers were stationed at every streetlight, directing traffic, and helicopters buzzed overhead. Something was clearly happening, but we left Vienna without any details.

Today’s ride along the Danube was breathtaking—exactly what I’d hoped for, and it finally arrived. We cycled alongside the river for miles, soaking in the stunning scenery and vibrant wildlife. We paused at a bakery to enjoy delicious pastries and coffee, and later stopped for lunch, savoring some hot dogs.

All in all, it was a long, beautiful day in the saddle—far better than a tedious day at the office. We settled down in a campground for the night in the city of Krems, Austria.

Rode 56 miles 

Keep on rolling

Scott and Sarah

The Best Laid Plans: 09/05/25

It was supposed to be a glorious day—a breezy 30-mile bike ride along the Danube, weaving through picture-perfect villages, sipping coffee at quaint cafés, and soaking in sweeping river views under a brilliant blue sky. The cherry on top? A visit to the majestic Melk Abbey. We woke up buzzing with excitement, ready for a fantastic day.

But oh, how quickly things can go awry with one fateful button push! While fiddling with the GPS to get us back on track, I was offered three route options. And, because I’m apparently a magnet for chaos, I picked the wrong one. Off we pedaled, brimming with anticipation, blissfully unaware of the detour destiny had in store.

At first, everything was perfect. The scenery was stunning and the pedals were spinning. But then Sarah made a comment. “I feel like we’re going the wrong way,” she said, her intuition tingling. I brushed it off—maps don’t lie, right? Then she pointed out we were riding into the sun, which seemed odd for our route. “Trust the GPS,” I declared with the confidence of a man who’s about to be spectacularly wrong. Normally, the GPS screeches like an angry parrot if you’re off course, but this time? Silence. 

So, we kept on pedaling. The truth hit us like a rogue headwind when we crossed a long bridge over the Danube. Sarah spotted some suspiciously familiar landmarks, but my pride clung to the GPS like a life raft. “The map is always right,” I kept telling myself. Once we reached the other side, reality slapped me hard: we’d ridden eight miles in the wrong direction. How? In my brilliance, I’d selected “reroute to the start of the journey” instead of “reroute to the nearest point.” The GPS was faithfully guiding us back to where we’d camped yesterday. Cue the sinking feeling in my gut. I was crushed, and though Sarah was probably plotting my demise, she handled it with grace that deserves a medal. No wonder our website is called www.tempertandem.com—moments like these test what a marriage is made of!

So, our “easy, iconic” Danube ride kicked off with a 16-mile detour just to get back to square one. If you can’t laugh off these hiccups on a trip like this, you might want to reconsider every attempting one—adventures like these are packed with surprises.

We eventually made it to Melk Abbey, but even that was a saga. Perched atop a hill, it demanded a leg-burning climb that left us gasping. By the time we arrived, our legs were toast. We toured the abbey, marveling at its grandeur, but the day wasn’t done with us yet. Seven more miles stood between us and our campsite, and—of course—rain started to sprinkle as we set out. Luckily, it was just a drizzle, giving us just enough time to pitch the tent and dive inside.

Dinner? Ha! We’d planned on treating ourselves to pizza, but the rain laughed at our plans, pouring until midnight. Oh, and did I mention our tent had a couple of leaks? No biggie—just a few drips, nothing a strategically placed rain jacket couldn’t handle. We called it an early night, dreaming of dry clothes and a day of redemption tomorrow. Here’s hoping the GPS and the weather get the memo!

Rode 50 miles today

Keep on rolling,

Scott and Sarah

Redemption Day: 09/06/25

After a night of rain, we were in no hurry to start early, so we lingered, waiting for the sun to dry our gear. We hit the road around 9:30—a late start for us—but the skies were stunning.

Our first task was finding breakfast. In Europe, breakfast isn’t quite like in the U.S., but we found a charming spot by the river, right along our route, serving delicious food. It was heavenly, and I even treated myself to a vanilla latte.

The ride along the Danube was breathtakingly scenic. We passed many cyclists from cruise ships heading in the opposite direction. We’d forgotten the long stares we got while riding through Europe on our last trip—people nearly fall off their bikes, craning their necks as we pass. Our tandem bike is unique, and our hats are a dead giveaway that we’re American.

At one point, we veered off the Danube to explore the countryside. The rolling hills, farms, and serene landscapes were a delight. Then, a perfect moment: we stumbled upon a small hotel with an outdoor café serving ice cream. It was exactly what we needed, and we savored every calorie. Delicious!

We stayed at a hotel in the town of Mauthausen, where we plan to visit one of the best-preserved concentration camps still standing.

Distance Ridden: 46 miles

Keep on rolling,

Scott and Sarah

Mauthausen Memorial: 09/07/25

After a restful night’s sleep, we enjoyed a delightful breakfast at the hotel. We had been warned that today’s visit to the Mauthausen Memorial might evoke strong emotions, so we braced ourselves for the experience. Setting off on a nearly four-mile bike ride, we arrived at the memorial, greeted by a sobering sight: an imposing stone fortress perched alone on a mountaintop, surrounded by breathtaking views stretching as far as the eye could see.

At the information center, we accessed a self-guided audio tour via our phones. Beginning at 10:30 AM, we spent five hours, until 3:30 PM, immersed in the site’s history. The sheer volume of information was overwhelming—layer upon layer of history to unpack and the weight of unimaginable atrocities to absorb.

The scale of loss at Mauthausen was staggering. The exhibits laid bare the murders, torture, and mayhem in harrowing detail. It’s almost incomprehensible how cruel humanity can become under certain circumstances. We began our tour by walking the grounds and visiting memorials from various countries which had dedicated memorials to their citizens who had suffered at the camp.

Mauthausen’s location was deliberately chosen for its rock quarry, where prisoners were forced to toil. There is grueling staircase of 209 steps, known as the “Stairs of Death,” where prisoners were required to carry 110-pound blocks of stone up one at a time. Thousands perished on those steps. As we descended and ascended them, it felt as though their whispers lingered in the air, a haunting reminder of their suffering.

The camp also included barracks, a kitchen, a laundry, an infirmary, cemeteries, and gas chambers. Each area left a profound and lasting impression, and the weight of each exhibit made it challenging to process everything. I may have missed a few details, but the experience was both unforgettable and deeply moving.

On our way back, we stopped for pizza and reflected on the day’s impact. Rather than recount every detail, I’ll leave you with the images etched in our minds. If you ever have the opportunity to visit Mauthausen, it is an essential, albeit somber, experience.

Keep on rolling,

Scott and Sarah

From Madness to Majesty: 09/08/25

In a single day, we transitioned from the haunting intensity of Mauthausen to the tranquil beauty of the Danube. Today, no particular moment stood out—only the sheer joy of a breathtaking bike ride from the time we left our hotel until we reached our campground.

The campground’s surroundings are stunning, and our early afternoon arrival gave us ample time to soak in the serenity and fully embrace the moment. We hope our photos capture the essence of this unforgettable day.

Rode 40 miles

Keep on rolling

Scott and Sarah